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Thanks for this information. I’m assuming that the aluminum backing plates are threaded and, therefore, no nuts are present.
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orion320@... via groups.io
Friday, July 31, 2020 11:54 AM
c400 <firstname.lastname@example.org>; C400@Catalina400-445.groups.io
[EXTERNAL] Re: [C400] C400 Stanchions
On Friday, July 31, 2020, 9:51:29 AM CDT, Kim Chapman <kim.chapman@...> wrote:
On hull #249 my inboard fasteners are machine bolts. I can only assume they go into aluminum plates.
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "orion320@..." <orion320@...>
Date: July 31, 2020 at 10:29 AM
Not to be critical because there has been a lot of good information shared in this thread, but I think I missed the answer to the original question in all of
the discussions. Do the fasteners that hold down the stanchions on the mid 200's series boats thread into a nut (or a tapped backing plate) or are they screwed into the deck? Based on all I've read, my takeaway is that the outboard fasteners are machine
screws into a tapped hole in the aluminum toe rail while the inboard fasteners are wood screws into the deck. Is this correct?
I thank everyone for all of the information shared here. The sketch regarding backing plates for the inboard screws was especially interesting.
On Friday, July 31, 2020, 2:15:50 AM CDT, SV Sonrisa via groups.io <svsonrisa@...> wrote:
Gaetan where did you put the butyl tape, specifically? Some owners have said that they didn’t put it under the entire stanchion base because it impedes the
flow of water down along the toe rail. You may have noticed that water pools in front of the bases, but the base actually bridges from the rail to the deck. Without the tape there is a gap there that would allow water to run through. The risk, of course,
is that it would also run down the screws and into the cabin. But back on the Yahoo forum It appeared that some people had figured that out.
Thanks again, and the drawing was helpful.
I did this job few years ago On Selena C400 Hull 115. I found 2 problems with the way that the stanchions are installed, First, itsn't a good idea to have Alu
and SS in contact, so you need to isolate the 2 metal to avoid corrosion, I saw a picture where the rail on C400 was very damaged. Second, the screw directly on fiberglass isn't very strong and in my boat few stanchion was very weak and leak also.
I dissabled almost all stanchion and replace it with a back plate of wood under the deck. We need to be very patient to do that because the access isn't very
easy. I used a weed eater thread from the holes from the deck, I was able to lift the wood backplate at the right place. In this way, the stanchion are screw in the back plate and it was very strong. I used Butyl to seal the stanchion on the deck, no more
leak and it's very strong now. With butyl, you have to tighten again few time in the beginning. The good thing with the butyl, if you have to dismount again the stanchion it's very easy. Also the butyl is more elastic then the caulking so it's keep the sealing
For some stanchion it was pretty easy, but for other it was pretty hard, particulary in the galley where I had to remove the top cabinet.
But I'm happy to do that and solve this problem.
Hoping that could be useful for you
I have had a sketch of the job.