C400 Stanchions


Kim Chapman
 

I make it a point in my regular maintenance to remove all SS bolts, around the boat, that are threaded into aluminum plates. These would include the stanchions, deck clutches, winches, etc.. I remove the bolt, goop it up with Lanocote, and replace it. With this sort of maintenance I will never have SS bolts that seize themselves into the aluminum plates.

Kim

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Frank Falcone <frank.falcone@...>
Date: July 28, 2020 at 3:02 PM

Hi Kim:

 

....just wondering about the stainless steel (SS) bolts going into aluminum backing plates. The 2 metals might ‘become one’. You have #249 and I have #247. I’ll try removing the SS bolts from topside  as you did, and see what happens.

 

Thanks for your response, Kim.

 

Regards,

Frank,

SILVER EAGLE #247

 

From: C400@Catalina400-445.groups.io <C400@Catalina400-445.groups.io> On Behalf Of Kim Chapman via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 11:19 AM
To: c400 <c400@catalina400-445.groups.io>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [C400] C400 Stanchions

 

I have removed all of the stanchion bolts, gooped them up with Lanocote (or Tef-Gel), and replaced them. This will hopefully reduce any issues with galvanic corrosion over time. I had no issues, assuming all along that the inboard bolts are going into embedded aluminum plates. The outboard bolts are obviously going into the toe rail.

Kim Chapman
C400 #249
Quiescence

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Frank Falcone <frank.falcone@...>
Date: July 28, 2020 at 10:49 AM

C400 Colleagues:

 

Can any of you offer some guidance and/or advice based on experience with REBEDDING C400 deck stanchions? I need to rebed at least 1 stanchion, maybe 2, and I’m wondering if I can complete that entire project from topside. If the stanchions are bolted into backing plates which are molded into the fiberglas deck below the surface of the deck; then, I think it’s possible to do the rebedding without worrying about removing nuts, washers, etc. from below the deck. It’s really hard, almost impossible, to reach the bolts from under the deck.

 

Any guidance and/or advice would be great!

 

Thanks so much!

 

Regards,

Frank

SILVER EAGLE, #247


 


 


--
Kim Chapman
Quiescence
C400-249

 


 


 


--
Kim Chapman
Quiescence
C400-249


quevillon gaetan <quevillon_gaetan@...>
 

Hello Frank

I did this job few years ago On Selena C400 Hull 115. I found 2 problems with the way that the stanchions are installed, First, itsn't a good idea to have Alu and SS in contact, so you need to isolate the 2 metal to avoid corrosion, I saw a picture where the rail on C400 was very damaged. Second, the screw directly on fiberglass isn't very strong and in my boat few stanchion was very weak and leak also. 

I dissabled almost all stanchion and replace it with a back plate of wood under the deck. We need to be very patient to do that because the access isn't very easy. I used a weed eater thread from the holes from the deck, I was able to lift the wood backplate at the right place. In this way, the stanchion are screw in the back plate and it was very strong. I used Butyl to seal the stanchion on the deck, no more leak and it's very strong now. With butyl, you have to tighten again few time in the beginning. The good thing with the butyl, if you have to dismount again the stanchion it's very easy. Also the butyl is more elastic then the caulking so it's keep the sealing property.

For some stanchion it was pretty easy, but for other it was pretty hard, particulary in the galley where I had to remove the top cabinet.

But I'm happy to do that and solve this problem.

Hoping that could be useful for you

I have had a sketch of the job.

Gaetan

Selena Hull 115



--
Gaetan Quevillon
Selena 1
Hull 115


SV Sonrisa
 

Gaetan where did you put the butyl tape, specifically?  Some owners have said that they didn’t put it under the entire stanchion  base because it impedes the flow of water down along the toe rail.  You may have noticed that water pools in front of the bases, but the base actually bridges from the rail to the deck. Without the tape there is a gap there that would allow water to run through. The risk, of course, is that it would also run down the screws and into the cabin. But back on the Yahoo forum It appeared that some people had figured that out. 

Thanks again, and the drawing was helpful. 

Jeff Logan
Sonrisa



On Jul 28, 2020, at 5:17 PM, quevillon gaetan via groups.io <quevillon_gaetan@...> wrote:


Hello Frank

I did this job few years ago On Selena C400 Hull 115. I found 2 problems with the way that the stanchions are installed, First, itsn't a good idea to have Alu and SS in contact, so you need to isolate the 2 metal to avoid corrosion, I saw a picture where the rail on C400 was very damaged. Second, the screw directly on fiberglass isn't very strong and in my boat few stanchion was very weak and leak also. 

I dissabled almost all stanchion and replace it with a back plate of wood under the deck. We need to be very patient to do that because the access isn't very easy. I used a weed eater thread from the holes from the deck, I was able to lift the wood backplate at the right place. In this way, the stanchion are screw in the back plate and it was very strong. I used Butyl to seal the stanchion on the deck, no more leak and it's very strong now. With butyl, you have to tighten again few time in the beginning. The good thing with the butyl, if you have to dismount again the stanchion it's very easy. Also the butyl is more elastic then the caulking so it's keep the sealing property.

For some stanchion it was pretty easy, but for other it was pretty hard, particulary in the galley where I had to remove the top cabinet.

But I'm happy to do that and solve this problem.

Hoping that could be useful for you

I have had a sketch of the job.

Gaetan

Selena Hull 115



--
Gaetan Quevillon
Selena 1
Hull 115
<Stanchion.jpg>


orion320@sbcglobal.net
 

Not to be critical because there has been a lot of good information shared in this thread, but I think I missed the answer to the original question in all of the discussions.  Do the fasteners that hold down the stanchions on the mid 200's series boats thread into a nut (or a tapped backing plate) or are they screwed into the deck?  Based on all I've read, my takeaway is that the outboard fasteners are machine screws into a tapped hole in the aluminum toe rail while the inboard fasteners are wood screws into the deck.  Is this correct?

I thank everyone for all of the information shared here.  The sketch regarding backing plates for the inboard screws was especially interesting.

Steve
S/V Independence
San Francisco, CA
C-400 #284

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 2:15:50 AM CDT, SV Sonrisa via groups.io <svsonrisa@...> wrote:


Gaetan where did you put the butyl tape, specifically?  Some owners have said that they didn’t put it under the entire stanchion  base because it impedes the flow of water down along the toe rail.  You may have noticed that water pools in front of the bases, but the base actually bridges from the rail to the deck. Without the tape there is a gap there that would allow water to run through. The risk, of course, is that it would also run down the screws and into the cabin. But back on the Yahoo forum It appeared that some people had figured that out. 

Thanks again, and the drawing was helpful. 

Jeff Logan
Sonrisa



On Jul 28, 2020, at 5:17 PM, quevillon gaetan via groups.io <quevillon_gaetan@...> wrote:


Hello Frank

I did this job few years ago On Selena C400 Hull 115. I found 2 problems with the way that the stanchions are installed, First, itsn't a good idea to have Alu and SS in contact, so you need to isolate the 2 metal to avoid corrosion, I saw a picture where the rail on C400 was very damaged. Second, the screw directly on fiberglass isn't very strong and in my boat few stanchion was very weak and leak also. 

I dissabled almost all stanchion and replace it with a back plate of wood under the deck. We need to be very patient to do that because the access isn't very easy. I used a weed eater thread from the holes from the deck, I was able to lift the wood backplate at the right place. In this way, the stanchion are screw in the back plate and it was very strong. I used Butyl to seal the stanchion on the deck, no more leak and it's very strong now. With butyl, you have to tighten again few time in the beginning. The good thing with the butyl, if you have to dismount again the stanchion it's very easy. Also the butyl is more elastic then the caulking so it's keep the sealing property.

For some stanchion it was pretty easy, but for other it was pretty hard, particulary in the galley where I had to remove the top cabinet.

But I'm happy to do that and solve this problem.

Hoping that could be useful for you

I have had a sketch of the job.

Gaetan

Selena Hull 115



--
Gaetan Quevillon
Selena 1
Hull 115
<Stanchion.jpg>


Kim Chapman
 

On hull #249 my inboard fasteners are machine bolts. I can only assume they go into aluminum plates.

Kim

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "orion320@..." <orion320@...>
Date: July 31, 2020 at 10:29 AM

 
Not to be critical because there has been a lot of good information shared in this thread, but I think I missed the answer to the original question in all of the discussions.  Do the fasteners that hold down the stanchions on the mid 200's series boats thread into a nut (or a tapped backing plate) or are they screwed into the deck?  Based on all I've read, my takeaway is that the outboard fasteners are machine screws into a tapped hole in the aluminum toe rail while the inboard fasteners are wood screws into the deck.  Is this correct?

I thank everyone for all of the information shared here.  The sketch regarding backing plates for the inboard screws was especially interesting.

Steve
S/V Independence
San Francisco, CA
C-400 #284

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 2:15:50 AM CDT, SV Sonrisa via groups.io <svsonrisa@...> wrote:


Gaetan where did you put the butyl tape, specifically?  Some owners have said that they didn’t put it under the entire stanchion  base because it impedes the flow of water down along the toe rail.  You may have noticed that water pools in front of the bases, but the base actually bridges from the rail to the deck. Without the tape there is a gap there that would allow water to run through. The risk, of course, is that it would also run down the screws and into the cabin. But back on the Yahoo forum It appeared that some people had figured that out. 

Thanks again, and the drawing was helpful. 

Jeff Logan
Sonrisa


 

On Jul 28, 2020, at 5:17 PM, quevillon gaetan via groups.io <quevillon_gaetan@...> wrote:


Hello Frank

I did this job few years ago On Selena C400 Hull 115. I found 2 problems with the way that the stanchions are installed, First, itsn't a good idea to have Alu and SS in contact, so you need to isolate the 2 metal to avoid corrosion, I saw a picture where the rail on C400 was very damaged. Second, the screw directly on fiberglass isn't very strong and in my boat few stanchion was very weak and leak also. 

I dissabled almost all stanchion and replace it with a back plate of wood under the deck. We need to be very patient to do that because the access isn't very easy. I used a weed eater thread from the holes from the deck, I was able to lift the wood backplate at the right place. In this way, the stanchion are screw in the back plate and it was very strong. I used Butyl to seal the stanchion on the deck, no more leak and it's very strong now. With butyl, you have to tighten again few time in the beginning. The good thing with the butyl, if you have to dismount again the stanchion it's very easy. Also the butyl is more elastic then the caulking so it's keep the sealing property.

For some stanchion it was pretty easy, but for other it was pretty hard, particulary in the galley where I had to remove the top cabinet.

But I'm happy to do that and solve this problem.

Hoping that could be useful for you

I have had a sketch of the job.

Gaetan

Selena Hull 115



--
Gaetan Quevillon
Selena 1
Hull 115
<Stanchion.jpg>
 


 


 


--
Kim Chapman
Quiescence
C400-249


orion320@sbcglobal.net
 

Thank you.

Steve

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 9:51:29 AM CDT, Kim Chapman <kim.chapman@...> wrote:


On hull #249 my inboard fasteners are machine bolts. I can only assume they go into aluminum plates.

Kim

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "orion320@..." <orion320@...>
Date: July 31, 2020 at 10:29 AM

 
Not to be critical because there has been a lot of good information shared in this thread, but I think I missed the answer to the original question in all of the discussions.  Do the fasteners that hold down the stanchions on the mid 200's series boats thread into a nut (or a tapped backing plate) or are they screwed into the deck?  Based on all I've read, my takeaway is that the outboard fasteners are machine screws into a tapped hole in the aluminum toe rail while the inboard fasteners are wood screws into the deck.  Is this correct?

I thank everyone for all of the information shared here.  The sketch regarding backing plates for the inboard screws was especially interesting.

Steve
S/V Independence
San Francisco, CA
C-400 #284

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 2:15:50 AM CDT, SV Sonrisa via groups.io <svsonrisa@...> wrote:


Gaetan where did you put the butyl tape, specifically?  Some owners have said that they didn’t put it under the entire stanchion  base because it impedes the flow of water down along the toe rail.  You may have noticed that water pools in front of the bases, but the base actually bridges from the rail to the deck. Without the tape there is a gap there that would allow water to run through. The risk, of course, is that it would also run down the screws and into the cabin. But back on the Yahoo forum It appeared that some people had figured that out. 

Thanks again, and the drawing was helpful. 

Jeff Logan
Sonrisa


 

On Jul 28, 2020, at 5:17 PM, quevillon gaetan via groups.io <quevillon_gaetan@...> wrote:


Hello Frank

I did this job few years ago On Selena C400 Hull 115. I found 2 problems with the way that the stanchions are installed, First, itsn't a good idea to have Alu and SS in contact, so you need to isolate the 2 metal to avoid corrosion, I saw a picture where the rail on C400 was very damaged. Second, the screw directly on fiberglass isn't very strong and in my boat few stanchion was very weak and leak also. 

I dissabled almost all stanchion and replace it with a back plate of wood under the deck. We need to be very patient to do that because the access isn't very easy. I used a weed eater thread from the holes from the deck, I was able to lift the wood backplate at the right place. In this way, the stanchion are screw in the back plate and it was very strong. I used Butyl to seal the stanchion on the deck, no more leak and it's very strong now. With butyl, you have to tighten again few time in the beginning. The good thing with the butyl, if you have to dismount again the stanchion it's very easy. Also the butyl is more elastic then the caulking so it's keep the sealing property.

For some stanchion it was pretty easy, but for other it was pretty hard, particulary in the galley where I had to remove the top cabinet.

But I'm happy to do that and solve this problem.

Hoping that could be useful for you

I have had a sketch of the job.

Gaetan

Selena Hull 115



--
Gaetan Quevillon
Selena 1
Hull 115
<Stanchion.jpg>
 


 


 


--
Kim Chapman
Quiescence
C400-249