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Hi Kim:
….just wondering about the stainless steel (SS) bolts going into aluminum backing plates. The 2 metals might ‘become one’. You have #249 and I have #247. I’ll try removing the SS bolts from topside as you did, and see what happens.
Thanks for your response, Kim.
Regards,
Frank,
SILVER EAGLE #247
From: C400@Catalina400-445.groups.io <C400@Catalina400-445.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Kim Chapman via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 11:19 AM
To: c400 <c400@catalina400-445.groups.io>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [C400] C400 Stanchions
I have removed all of the stanchion bolts, gooped them up with Lanocote (or Tef-Gel), and replaced them. This will hopefully reduce any issues with galvanic corrosion over time. I had no issues, assuming all along that the inboard bolts are going into embedded
aluminum plates. The outboard bolts are obviously going into the toe rail.
Kim Chapman
C400 #249
Quiescence
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Frank Falcone <frank.falcone@...>
Date: July 28, 2020 at 10:49 AM
C400 Colleagues:
Can any of you offer some guidance and/or advice based on experience with REBEDDING C400 deck stanchions? I need to rebed at least 1 stanchion, maybe 2, and I’m wondering if I can
complete that entire project from topside. If the stanchions are bolted into backing plates which are molded into the fiberglas deck below the surface of the deck; then, I think it’s possible to do the rebedding without worrying about removing nuts, washers,
etc. from below the deck. It’s really hard, almost impossible, to reach the bolts from under the deck.
Any guidance and/or advice would be great!
Thanks so much!
Regards,
Frank
SILVER EAGLE, #247
--
Kim Chapman
Quiescence
C400-249
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Experience with toerails. I got exact replacements from Catalina Factory Parts. Always send a picture with a good description. I have gotten port, starboard, foward and aft. All my stanchions (#130 Mk1) have two 1/4" x 20 bolts (went with hex head) and two screws into fiberglass , no alum. plate. I bedded all the bolts and screws with 5200 and tuf gelled the bolts. No leaks and no loose screws Alan J. S/V Skol #130
Hi Kim:
….just wondering about the stainless steel (SS) bolts going into aluminum backing plates. The 2 metals might ‘become one’. You have #249 and I have #247. I’ll try removing the SS bolts from topside as you did, and see what happens.
Thanks for your response, Kim.
Regards,
Frank,
SILVER EAGLE #247
I have removed all of the stanchion bolts, gooped them up with Lanocote (or Tef-Gel), and replaced them. This will hopefully reduce any issues with galvanic corrosion over time. I had no issues, assuming all along that the inboard bolts are going into embedded
aluminum plates. The outboard bolts are obviously going into the toe rail.
Kim Chapman
C400 #249
Quiescence
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Frank Falcone <frank.falcone@...>
Date: July 28, 2020 at 10:49 AM
C400 Colleagues:
Can any of you offer some guidance and/or advice based on experience with REBEDDING C400 deck stanchions? I need to rebed at least 1 stanchion, maybe 2, and I’m wondering if I can
complete that entire project from topside. If the stanchions are bolted into backing plates which are molded into the fiberglas deck below the surface of the deck; then, I think it’s possible to do the rebedding without worrying about removing nuts, washers,
etc. from below the deck. It’s really hard, almost impossible, to reach the bolts from under the deck.
Any guidance and/or advice would be great!
Thanks so much!
Regards,
Frank
SILVER EAGLE, #247
--
Kim Chapman
Quiescence
C400-249
|
|
|
Following this discussion. I have 284 and it is getting to be that time to re-bed things. Thanks for keeping us updated about these little projects.
Steve S/V Independence San Francisco, CA C-400 #284
On Tuesday, July 28, 2020, 3:32:08 PM CDT, Alan Johnson <alanwilliamjohnson@...> wrote:
Experience with toerails. I got exact replacements from Catalina Factory Parts. Always send a picture with a good description. I have gotten port, starboard, foward and aft. All my stanchions (#130 Mk1) have two 1/4" x 20 bolts (went with hex head) and two screws into fiberglass , no alum. plate. I bedded all the bolts and screws with 5200 and tuf gelled the bolts. No leaks and no loose screws Alan J. S/V Skol #130
Hi Kim:
….just wondering about the stainless steel (SS) bolts going into aluminum backing plates. The 2 metals might ‘become one’. You have #249 and I have #247. I’ll try removing the SS bolts from topside as you did, and see what happens.
Thanks for your response, Kim.
Regards,
Frank,
SILVER EAGLE #247
I have removed all of the stanchion bolts, gooped them up with Lanocote (or Tef-Gel), and replaced them. This will hopefully reduce any issues with galvanic corrosion over time. I had no issues, assuming all along that the inboard bolts are going into embedded
aluminum plates. The outboard bolts are obviously going into the toe rail.
Kim Chapman
C400 #249
Quiescence
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Frank Falcone <frank.falcone@...>
Date: July 28, 2020 at 10:49 AM
C400 Colleagues:
Can any of you offer some guidance and/or advice based on experience with REBEDDING C400 deck stanchions? I need to rebed at least 1 stanchion, maybe 2, and I’m wondering if I can
complete that entire project from topside. If the stanchions are bolted into backing plates which are molded into the fiberglas deck below the surface of the deck; then, I think it’s possible to do the rebedding without worrying about removing nuts, washers,
etc. from below the deck. It’s really hard, almost impossible, to reach the bolts from under the deck.
Any guidance and/or advice would be great!
Thanks so much!
Regards,
Frank
SILVER EAGLE, #247
--
Kim Chapman
Quiescence
C400-249
|
|
|
Hi Alan:
....great input. Thanks so much!
Regards,
Frank
SILVER EAGLE, #247
From: C400@Catalina400-445.groups.io <C400@Catalina400-445.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Alan Johnson via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 4:31 PM
To: C400@catalina400-445.groups.io
Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: [C400] C400 Stanchions
Experience with toerails. I got exact replacements from Catalina Factory Parts. Always send a picture with a good description. I have gotten port, starboard, foward and aft. All my stanchions (#130 Mk1) have two 1/4" x 20 bolts (went with
hex head) and two screws into fiberglass , no alum. plate. I bedded all the bolts and screws with 5200 and tuf gelled the bolts. No leaks and no loose screws
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Tue, Jul 28, 2020, 3:02 PM Frank Falcone < frank.falcone@...> wrote:
Hi Kim:
….just wondering about the stainless steel (SS) bolts going into aluminum backing plates. The 2 metals might ‘become one’. You have #249 and I have #247. I’ll try removing the SS
bolts from topside as you did, and see what happens.
Thanks for your response, Kim.
Regards,
Frank,
SILVER EAGLE #247
I have removed all of the stanchion bolts, gooped them up with Lanocote (or Tef-Gel), and replaced them. This will hopefully reduce any issues with galvanic corrosion over time. I had no issues, assuming all along that the inboard bolts are going into embedded
aluminum plates. The outboard bolts are obviously going into the toe rail.
Kim Chapman
C400 #249
Quiescence
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Frank Falcone <frank.falcone@...>
Date: July 28, 2020 at 10:49 AM
C400 Colleagues:
Can any of you offer some guidance and/or advice based on experience with REBEDDING C400 deck stanchions? I need to rebed at least 1 stanchion, maybe 2, and I’m wondering if I can
complete that entire project from topside. If the stanchions are bolted into backing plates which are molded into the fiberglas deck below the surface of the deck; then, I think it’s possible to do the rebedding without worrying about removing nuts, washers,
etc. from below the deck. It’s really hard, almost impossible, to reach the bolts from under the deck.
Any guidance and/or advice would be great!
Thanks so much!
Regards,
Frank
SILVER EAGLE, #247
--
Kim Chapman
Quiescence
C400-249
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