Boom support suggestions / tricks while changing toggle?


Allen W.
 

Anyone have any tricks to support the boom while changing the toggle?
 
I was thinking about rigging some sort of support ‘loop’ and connecting it with a halyard.
It also looks like I should disconnect the vang for easier realignment of the gooseneck bolt.
 
 
All help greatly appreciated!
 
 
- ALLEN
 
C400, 1999 Mk1, #154 San Diego, Ca


Tom Sokoloski
 

Allen,
I'm a bit confused as to which toggle you refer to. If you want to hold the boom in position, I would attach the main halyard to the aft end of the boom (if you don't have a topping lift), and attach a spinnaker halyard to the forward end of the boom. With those two in place, you have full accurate control of both ends, with the mainsheet keeping the boom from swinging out too far to either side. And yes, taking off the vang would make things easier. Hope this helps. 

Tom Soko
Juniper #307
Noank, CT

--
Tom Soko
Juniper #307
Noank, CT


Allen W.
 

Thanks Tom.  #2  in the attached photo is the Toggle.
It’s bolted to the Boom and the inner part of the hinge that is the gooseneck.

I have a topping lift, and had replaced the gooseneck pin in the past.
What you mentioned before is basically what I did…
but without removing the vang.

Just checking for any tricks or tips I hadn’t thought of.


For any future reading of this, it looks like the C400 Sparcraft boom is a F810




- ALLEN

C400, 1999 Mk1, #154, San Diego, Ca 







On Feb 27, 2022, at 11:56 AM, Tom Sokoloski <tomsoko@...> wrote:

Allen,
I'm a bit confused as to which toggle you refer to. If you want to hold the boom in position, I would attach the main halyard to the aft end of the boom (if you don't have a topping lift), and attach a spinnaker halyard to the forward end of the boom. With those two in place, you have full accurate control of both ends, with the mainsheet keeping the boom from swinging out too far to either side. And yes, taking off the vang would make things easier. Hope this helps. 

Tom Soko
Juniper #307
Noank, CT

-- 
Tom Soko
Juniper #307
Noank, CT


Allen W.
 

Here’s my current Toggle.

You can see how the bottom of it has been ‘machined’ by the gooseneck bracket.

I had called a local rigging place in San Diego
and was told the ‘correction’ was going to ‘start’ at $450
and to "expect it to go up from there”.

The said the repair was common.  
They were going to remove the toggle,
take it back to their shop, machine it flat,
and make it the original height using bushings and washers.



After chancing across a reply from Boris on the C400 F.book page,
I was surprised to find the part on Rig-Rite for $179.

I decided to also go with a Rams Horn pin for the gooseneck for an additional $229.

Order total with shipping was $433.30



For further info:

Toggle ( part # FB2-414 )   $179

Rams Horn pin ( part # FB2-1A )   $229


Rig-Rite
FB-810 Sparcraft Boom





- ALLEN

C400, 1999 Mk1, #154, San Diego, Ca 












Tom Sokoloski
 

Allen,
One further suggestion. I'm pretty close to 100% sure that the "machining" done on your toggle was due to the boom moving slightly to port and stbd with each wave, when at anchor, and also when tied in a slip. Unless I'm on the hard, I find that the boat (and the boom) is always moving. Even if you pull the mainsheet tight against the topping lift, there will always be some play, and the boom will move back and forth, wearing down the gooseneck components. I had that exact problem on a previous boat. Ever since, when the sails are dropped, I pull the traveler all the way to the port side, and snugging a line attached from the boom bail to the stbd side of the traveler, center the boom. It only takes a few seconds, and effectively stops the boom from moving at all. Hope this helps.

Tom Soko

--
Tom Soko
Juniper #307
Noank, CT


Tom Sokoloski
 

Allen,
PS- If it were me, I would take the toggle off the boat, take it home, and file the bottom edge flat again. Get a couple of SS washers, or maybe a delrin washer between two SS washers to fill in the extra space, and reinstall the toggle. From the picture, it looks like there is still plenty of "meat" on the toggle. IMHO.

Tom

--
Tom Soko
Juniper #307
Noank, CT


Boris Keselman
 

Allen,

You was right about the parts. Works absolutely flawlessly when reefing.

Boris
#234 ARGO


-----Original Message-----
From: Allen W. <wrenchaw@...>
To: C400@catalina400-445.groups.io <C400@Catalina400-445.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Feb 27, 2022 5:08 pm
Subject: Re: [C400] Boom support suggestions / tricks while changing toggle?

Here’s my current Toggle.

You can see how the bottom of it has been ‘machined’ by the gooseneck bracket.

I had called a local rigging place in San Diego
and was told the ‘correction’ was going to ‘start’ at $450
and to "expect it to go up from there”.

The said the repair was common.  
They were going to remove the toggle,
take it back to their shop, machine it flat,
and make it the original height using bushings and washers.



After chancing across a reply from Boris on the C400 F.book page,
I was surprised to find the part on Rig-Rite for $179.

I decided to also go with a Rams Horn pin for the gooseneck for an additional $229.

Order total with shipping was $433.30



For further info:

Toggle ( part # FB2-414 )   $179

Rams Horn pin ( part # FB2-1A )   $229


Rig-Rite
FB-810 Sparcraft Boom





- ALLEN

C400, 1999 Mk1, #154, San Diego, Ca