Best wishes on your sale, Ken

Diana, The Bed-It brand, sold in the US by Compass Marine is no longer available. The owner had a serious health event and the site is closed for the moment. You can buy it from a Canadian source at a

Mark, Using JBWeld could make renewing the lower bearing somewhat difficult in the future. The key point in fixing the lower bearing is to not use too long of a lag screw that the screw reaches the ru

Matt, Some furlers like Furlex specify using a Sta-Lok at the bottom. However, they also specify the use of red Loctite. My preference is Vibra-Tite over red Loctite. Also the use of toggles top and b

As Tom said swage at the top and Sta-Lok on the bottom. The inverted swage at the top makes saltwater entry more difficult as well.

Kim, Unless the turnbuckle studs were taped prior to detensioning the rigging, the rigger's measurements will be approximate lengths. But he'll have to stand by his guesstimates. The $250 seems high b

Kim, One of these will work. Not sure of your width but the bore is 5/8". https://www.marinedepotdirect.com/anchor-roller-replacement-wheels.html Ken

Frank, There are a number of safe methods available to get to the mast top even for singlehanders. Unless you have a severe fear of heights, getting to the top of the mast should not be an impediment

But you'll have to get a can of red engine paint for it to work properly...

Doug, The W42B is a marinized Mitsubishi K4F. Here's the NGK glow plug. It's about $7. https://www.ngk.com/ngk-6528-y-114t-glow-plug Ken

Stefan, I was referring to galvanic corrosion within the end cap assembly. I don't believe Rydlyme or Barnacle Buster would have much of an effect on the dissolution of metal. The link is attached thi

Since Nick raised the subject of avoiding removing the end caps on the heat exchanger as a bonus, allow me to be a Debbie Downer for a moment. I'm a firm believer in removing the Yanmar end caps every

Frank, As you know, pointing ability is driven by sheeting angles and keel lift. So with a #3 genoa and wing keel, you're giving up a lot. Why not fall off and pick up boat speed probably better for V

Craig, That sounds like a great setup especially since you can use the inner tracks for upwind. Those snatch blocks further up the toe rail are what I referred to as a barber hauler. Ken

Frank, What you suggest will work but you'll probably need a barber hauler as well to properly trim the headsail. Pulling from that far aft will mostly tension the foot, the barber hauler will tension

My 2 cents for all that it's worth. If I were looking for a new headsail I'd take Chic's offer in a heartbeat. My experience with well-made mitre cut headsails has always left me thinking why did sail

I don't know if this is the kind of solution that appeals to you but Ebay currently has several ST60 wind transducers for sale both new and used. The new prices are...well, spendy.

I don't have pictures but once the headliner is dropped everything is very accessible. Wiring is led from the lazarette.

Craig, The Sarca Excel is another highly regarded non-rollbar anchor.

Steve, That's the problem with you racer types, all you want to do is go fast. But us wing keel cruisers know how to set down solid roots when we find somewhere we like. Thanks for the kind anchor com