Hi Jon The folks talking about that may have been referring to the port side floor board rather than the lift out panel directly behind the engine. On my boat one of the PO had cut out an inspection

This might be a MKi vs MKii thing as my floorboard is easily removable with rear engine cover in place to view raw water thru hull. I’ll add a picture later today. From:

I've read about folks cutting their floorboard for easier access (not moving rear engine cover) to the thru hull. I've seen references to cutting out a rectangle to cutting the board in half. Anyone

Craig, You're correct the Iota does not utilize a temp sensor. The two major reasons for a temp sensor are to protect against thermal runaway and shorten the charge time during cold weather. Thermal

Bob, Real life story with actual data. First I don't own a battery charger, I don't think their worth the money asked. What I do have is a regulated power supply that has both a voltage and amp meter.

It didn't miss the mark at all, I thought it was great! No offense taken. Get Outlook for Android

Ken, I stand by my conclusion The charge characteristics for a depleted house bank are different than they would be if combined with a fully charged start battery. Some of the configurable

Bob, I'm very partial to donkeys... again initial voltage of a single battery or paralleled batteries doesn't matter one wit for charging purposes. Every reputable battery manufacturer has a published

Hi Bob: Thanks for your guidance! Regards, Frank From: C400@Catalina400-445.groups.io <C400@Catalina400-445.groups.io>On Behalf Of Bob Kempe via groups.io Sent: Friday, August 26, 2022

Ken, I never said that the setup wouldn't work. Batteries put in parallel will equalize over time. But if (using a combiner for charging) a house bank at 12.1 volts is put in parallel with a

One question about this. Every charger I've seen (and ACR setup) has a single temperature probe. How much does that matter? I totally believe that ACR is a safe way to go, but a DC-DC charger is

Alternatively, you could put all removable electronics in a faraday cage aka oven. I always put my laptop, tablet and such in the oven when I left the boat. Get Outlook for Android

Jim, The most accepted method used to protect electronics from voltage spikes caused by nearby lightning strikes is to install a clamping diode circuit on both the positive and negative feed wires for

Bob, I respectfully disagree with your observation. If we assume that both house and start are the same chemistry as in Frank's case, then paralleling banks to charge is perfectly fine. As soon as

Hi Frank, My start battery and dc-dc charger are located in the same place as yours. As I see it, problem with having all batteries combined during charging is that, typically, the start battery is

Hello All, Was wondering what others do to prevent lightning strikes or protect against lightning strikes. Had a boat get struck very near to me last week. I lost my solar power charge controller

My primary shore power charger has been a ProNautic 1250 for nearly ten years, and I'm very happy with it because: -The charging voltages are very programmable -It has temperature compensation using a

Oh, wow. Hadn't thought about looking outside of marine chargers. Iota Engineering DLS is a really interesting idea. Yet more research to do. :-) Thanks, Craig

Hi Bob: ...sounds somewhat similar to my set up aboard SILVER EAGLE (C400 Mark II #247). However, I have only one Battery Charger for all 3 batteries (2 AGM 4D House Batteries and 1 AGM Group #27

I have a xantrex freedom 2000, inverter/charger 2kw/80amp. My last xantrex bit the dust after a couple of years and I looked at other options, but wanted the same physical footprint in order to fit in